Transition to Motorsport (4): Preparing to Race

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One thing I’ve learned about the motorsport world is that everything is last-minute. I’m not sure yet if that’s because of the nature of racing or just because accidents and breakages happen, and this throws everyone’s plans out, in a domino effect. Or maybe it’s just difficult to finance motorsport, and there are simply not enough people going around to do the work.

So what do you need to prepare for racing? Here’s a simple list.

  • Get your ARDS test and listen to the part about joining the first race carefully (e.g. signing on, scrutineering, entering the track)! And also learn the part about the starting procedures, as you won’t get to practice these (unles you join the GRDC, where they give us a practice).
  • Buy your race gear. If you buy as a package in one go, you’ll get a discount. You might want to wait a while before buying the HANS device, but make sure you buy a HANS well before the first race, and start to use it on your track days (as it takes practice to adjust to restricted head movement).
  • Join a club, such as BARC or 750 MC, as a racing member. This takes about a week, possibly two to come back.
  • Get hold of your race schedule for the season and book hotels a few months ahead, near the circuit.
  • Think of your graphics / livery and discuss with a wrapping company. Schedule in a date at least a couple of months before the first race.
  • Get hold of the race technical regulations and ask a professional motorsport team to set it up for you (e.g. ride heights, corner weighting, roll bar settings). It should take about 4 or 5 hours at around £60 / hour.
  • Learn from the team how to do a spanner check. After a few track days, you will certainly have some loose bolts, missing clips and clamps, etc.
  • Learn what technicals to check at a track day every time you go out on track, as you will be responsible for these on race day: tyres (set the pressures), fuel (make sure you have enough) and wheels (make sure you have torqued them correctly).
  • Watch some races in your series, and learn the corners, holding area and start procedures. Maybe take some video.

Track time is the key to becoming competitive. Even if your natural ability is not as good as a fellow competitor, you will almost certainly get quicker than them if you spend more time in the car.


The ARDS (Association of Racing Drivers’ Schools) test is the racing licence test sanctioned by the MSA (Motor Sports Association) in the UK. As you progress through motor sport and do more competitions, your licence will also progress through different levels and you will, for example be allowed to compete outside the UK.

You can take an ARDS test at most race circuits, including the MSV tracks and Silverstone, where I took mine, as arranged by Ginetta. The test is taken over a period of one day at the circuit. Before going, you’ll be given an application pack which includes a DVD (called Go Racing) to explain all you need to know about the test. You can also search on Google and download an old copy of the MSA Blue Book (part of the general rules and regulations) to read about the procedures, flags, and so on that are explained in the DVD.

Watch the DVD as many times as you can, and you will absorb all you need to know to pass the theory part of the test. It will also help you with the practical test, as it explains the general principles of speed and of smoothness, accuracy and consistency that the ARDS tester will be looking for.

On the test day itself, you’ll do two sections: the written test and the practical test.

The written test normally comes first, after an introduction session and another viewing of the DVD. The test contains about 20 questions in multiple-choice and written-response format (such as writing down which flag is for which track situation). Each candidate in the test room gets a different set of questions, so there can’t be any comparing of answers!

The practical test involves a demo run with the instructor, where he shows you the potential speed of the car (normally a front-wheel drive, such as a Clio or Megane) on a race track. I think it’s also designed to put you in the right frame of mind, and let you know that you are there to drive fast, and if you’re not prepared for that already on the day, you should think about it. These instructors are professional racing drivers, and they can go FAST.

The practical test then involves two instruction sessions of about 15 minutes each, after which you’ll sit in-car with the instructor and discuss what he sees you doing wrong (and right) and the areas you should concentrate on, such as not blasting the throttle too early before the apex. These sessions are like a mini instruction day, to point out areas where you might spin or go off the circuit, and to educate you on the principle of going fast and urgently on track, and therefore not becoming a hazard.

The third practical session is the test itself, and the instructor will ask you to do three or four laps without any input from him / her. They are looking for awareness (mirrors – and you should tell them what you see approaching), control and safety, and a minimum speed around the lap. You don’t have to set records on the speed, just drive within your fast ability and with urgency. If you spin or exit the circuit by out-braking yourself, you will fail the test.

At the end of the practical test, the instructor will probably tell you in the car if you have passed or failed that part. After this you’ll also get the results of your written test. If you pass both, your paper is signed and you can apply for the National B licence.

The 750 Motor Club has a clear process document on how to go racing, here: See also and

Helmet and HANS

Compared to motorcycle helmets, availability and models of racing helmets are more specific. You must buy a model with an FIA approval, and they normally come in white, silver or black. It’s rare that you’ll find a helmet with graphics. I’ve only seen one Bell model with red / white graphics pre-applied. The helmet will also need HANS posts (locking points on the rear of the shell) because all MSA events in the UK now require the driver to use a HANS neck brace.

If you’re intending to race, it’s best to get accustomed to the HANS device as soon as possible. They are not uncomfortable in my experience, but they do restrict your sideways and rear vision and movement (e.g. for reaching a non-closed passenger door!) because you can’t turn your head more than 20 degrees or so, or move your head away from the seat.

You will obviously need the five-point harness in the car to use with the HANS device, and all this takes time to set up when you get in the car, so it’s best to get comfortable with doing it every time you go out on circuit.

I chose a Stilo ST5 Composite helmet (the design for lifting the visor is great), with a Schroeder HANS device (seemed the lightest and best value) and a tinted, iridium visor for those low-sun winter afternoons on track. The iridium visors look dark, but from the inside, they are clear and don’t restrict light in my opinion (and you can always leave it up when not wanting the sun shade).

Graphcis / Livery

I suggest finding a local company that shows pictures of racing cars on its website. There is probably a supplier within 20 miles of you that does this for some race team or other. I was lucky to find Jellyfish Design within two miles, and they do wraps for BTCC and many other race teams. Race cars are mostly wrapped, not painted nowadays, and the design and wrap can cost from £300-500 upwards, including advice on the design. A cheaper option is just to get stickers made up by the same company. You’ll need a couple of months to go through the process when it gets close to racing season, so it’s best to think about the graphics early if you can. I was caught out by needing factory fixes to the car just when I was planning to send the car to Jellyfish for livery, about a month before the first race, so that was too late.

As it stands, the car looked like this (below) just before the first race. You’ll notice that you need number boards and possibly windscreen banners from the series sponsors, and those will need to go on top of your graphics. So that’s another reason for starting graphics early. I will now have to work around the number boards or get some new ones.

Mark Seymour Ginetta G40

Track Time (Track Days to Test Days)

I can’t stress enough how important it is to get track time in your race car if you want to get fast, particularly for competition. You may not expect to win, but you will want to give a good account of yourself for your own satisfaction, and end up in the position you think you’re worthy of. You will know straight away who is faster and slower than you when you go on track days with fellow competitors. It is possible to move ahead of others purely by putting more driving time into the car.

With the Ginetta G40 GRDC, this is particularly true because all cars are the same and you have a level playing field upon which to work on your driving, and gain familiarity for when the car is on the limit. No matter what anyone says, I think the G40 is a difficult car to drive, but also extremely rewarding when you learn what NOT to do and how to control the car. The only way to learn this is to put more track miles in and keep pushing. That will involve spins, but fewer as time progresses.

Track time is cheapest on public track days, and I have an article on those, here:

If you’re not finding enough time on track, you’ll need to put more money into the game unfortunately, and you can go to Test Days, which are eligible for drivers with race licences only. You can find out more about Test Days here: These days are often run in sessions, and normally on weekdays. Your track time will be limited and it’s more expensive, so you have to go there with a specific goal in mind, to work on areas of driving, track-learning or set-up.